Mumbai, India

GruVee as we discussed earlier is the face of the Austrian wine industry however this is where their wine story begins and leads us into some myriad and some surprising finds in the wine hinterlands of Austria. Form Weinviertel in the North to Steiermark or Styria in the south a lot of grape varieties are certainly making Austria proud.  And yes, Vienna the capital of the country is the only world capital to produce significant quantities wine within city limits. Look for the Viennese blend Gemistcher Satz, a blend of grape grown within the regions.  Now let’s take a brief account of popular wines from Austria

Whites: (% of total vineyard area)
Riesling (4.1%): Regions:  Danube, Niederosterreich
Austria alongside France and Germany are known for its perfumed and terroir driven wines.  The late ripening variety gets  help from warm currents from the Pannonian plateau to the east which helps extend the ripening season giving the grapes optimum sugar and phenolic ripeness. Kamptal, Kremstal and Traisental are the DAC’s famed for the variety.
The Happy High Picks:
Malat, Steinbuhel, 2013 Kremstal DAC
Topf, Heilgenstein, 2013, Kamptal DAC Reserve
Preiss, Pletzengraben, 2014, Traisental DAC
Hajszan Neumann, Steinberg, 2013, Wien ( Vienna)

Weissburgunder /Pinot Blanc (4.3%):
A grape which originated in France and is one the noble variety in Alsace is a very easy drinking variety with refreshing acidity with green fruit and floral notes.  Was often mistook as a chardonnay in vineyards, this is grape is taken most seriously in Austria where it can make some dry with depth and some luscious botrytis affected sweet wines.
The Happy High Picks:
Zillinger Johannes, Hohes Eck, 2013 Weinviertel DAC
Waldschutz, Schaflerberg, 2014 Wagram Reserve
Christ, Der Vollmodwein, 2014, Wien (Vienna)

Morillon/ Chardonnay (3.1%) Regions: Steiermark (Styria) and Northern Burgenland
Chardonnay requires no introduction and the adaptability of the grape is a phenomenon. Chardonnay grows across the wine regions and makes both light and crisp to heavy oaked styles of wine. It is called Morillon in Styria.
The Happy High Picks:
Hans Moser, 2012 Leithaberg DAC
Tement, Zieregg, 2005, Sussteiermark (South Styria) Reserve
Manuel Nossing, 2013, Wien Reserve

Sauvignon Blanc (2 %) Region: Steiermark
After France and New Zealand this grape has travelled a bit and showing promise in some of its settlements like Chile and even India. I was surprised to see this grape here in the Southern Styria in its juicy and even oaked avatar.
The Happy High Picks:
Sattlerhof, Kranachberg, 2012  Sudsteiermark
Seher, 2014, Weinviertel DAC

Rose:
Blauer Wildbacher (1.0 %)  Region: Steiermark
This is a Red variety which is known for ‘Schilcher’ wines, rose wine from Steiermark known for its grassy and spicy notes with a long finish. It also is used to make Icewines. The next time you Schilcher you know that it will leave your palate lingering with a Raspberry finish….
The Happy High Picks:
Langmann, 2014 Weststeiermark
Jobstl, Altes Weingarten, 2014 Weststeiermark 

St Laurent (1.7%) Region: Thermenregion and Northern Burgenland
St Laurent or Sankt laurent produces medium to full bodied wines worthy of aging. In some cases it sees oak adding more complexity to the dark Cherry profile and sweet spice profile of the wine.
The Happy High Picks:
Jonhanneshof Reinisch, 2013, Thermenregion
Schneider, 2012, Thermenregion Reserve

Zwiegelt (14.1%)  Regions: Caruntum, Neusiedlersee
This is my favourite of the reds and the most planted red variety in Austria. Created by Dr Fritz Zweigelt, it was created in 1922 and is a cross between Blaufrankisch and St Laurent. It makes fruity light to barrique-aging worthy wines. It is also found in Czech Republic and Slovakia.
The Happy High Picks:
Christian Fischer, Gradenthal, 2011, Thermenregion
Karl Brindlmayr, 2011, Niederosterreich Reserve

Blaufrankisch (7%) Region:  North and Mid Burgenland, Eastern Niederosterreich
Another powerhouse grape which originated in Austria, I am yet to come to terms with it due to the spectrum of styles I tasted only very few of which I liked.
The Happy High Picks:
Triebaumer Ernst, Meriental, 2011, Burgenland
Bauer Poltl, Altes Weingebirge, 2011, Burgenland 

Spatburgunder (1.4 %)  Regions: Red wine growing regions
Pinot Noir or Spatburgunder happily grows in the 48 degree latitudinal belt of Austria making refreshing reds to some barrel aged elixirs.
The Happy High Picks:
Uibel, End des Berges 2010 Weinviertel Reserve
Bauer Anton, Feuersbrunn, 2012, Wagram Reserve

Sweet Wines
Lastly the Austrian wine scene is incomplete without the tasting of its illustrious sweet wines. Types of sweet wines being Noble Rot or Botrytis wines most popular from the banks of the Neusiedlersee, Eiswein made from frozen grapes and Schilfwein or straw wine made by drying grapes for a minimum of 4 months.  Mukatel Ottonel, Welschriesling (WR) , Weissburgunder( WB) and Traminer are some popular grape varieties used for the same.
The Happy High Picks:
Heidi Schrock, Spatlese, WR & WB, 2013 Burgenland
Haider, TrockenBeerenauslese, WR & WB, 2012, Burgenland
Ernst Triebaumer, Eiswein, Blend, 2012, Burgenland
Angerhof Tschida, Schilfwein, Muskat Ottonel, 2009 Burgenland

Mumbai,India
Understanding the wine label is more than half the battle won, the other half is more enjoyable; the drinking or to be polite; tasting; at least in the professional scene. When we look at the former, the battle if often attributed to the old world wine making countries , France, Germany, Austria to name a few.  Why? Because with centuries of wine making experience they know what plot is best for what grape, they have strong laws governing their viticultural and vinification process etc and all of this is manifested on the label  with a few terms, it is given that people would know given their legacy, if not  one ought to learn it. Nonetheless with wine going international the big guns are making amends to make their labels more approachable whilst sticking to their regulations. The Austrian wine legacy began in 1 BC when the Romans began their plantations and with those many years of wine making behind them they too have some regulations.  Let’s look at pointers to look for on a label to make our Austrian Wine shopping easy

Regions and DAC(Districtus Austria Controlattus)
Quality wines from Austria come from grapes grown in one of the 25 specific wine growing regions in Austria of which 9 are generic winemaking areas and 16 specific. Again of the 16 we have 9 DACs, DAC is the highest classification and when on the label refer to region typical wines. The 9 Austrian DACs are Kremstal, Kamptal, Traisental, Weinviertal, Weiner Gemischter Satz, Neusiedlersee, Leithaberg, Mittelburgenland and Eisenburg. Spot these on the label!

Pradikatswein
Based on the sugar content of the grape when harvested, quality wines are classified into the following in an ascending order of sweetness:
Kabinett (dry wine)
Spatlese (dry or sweet wine)
Auslese (dry or sweet wine)
Beerenauslese (Sweet wines here on)
Eiswein
Strohwine/ Schilfwein 
Ausbruch
Trockenbeerenauslese

Sweetness
The sweetness in the final wine is indicated by use of terms as below:
Trocken- Dry
Halbtrocken- Off dry
Lieblich- Medium sweet
Suss- Sweet

Environment, Organic
For those of you who prefer organic and environmentally sustainable produce, look for the below logo on the bottle.

Other labeling terms
Reserve: These wine are rested for at least a year before release, have more than 13% alcohol and can take in oak and botrytis flavors.
Smaragd, Fiederspiel, Steinfeder : Restricted to the area of Wachau, these were coined when there no classification or wines. These terms again indicate the ripeness of the grape when harvested and ultimately shows in the final wine. Steinfeder is the lightest and Smaragd is the heaviest. 

Banderole:
Lastly the most important and the easiest way to identify a quality Austrian wine is the Banderole in the form of their national flag placed on the top of the closure or on the bottle with the registered producer number.

Picture Gallery:
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Mumbai, India

My tryst with Gruner Veltliner fondly called GruVee began in 2008 while I was working in beverages in London; it was supposed to be the next big thing to happen after Pinot Grigio in the market then. I moved to India shortly after and GruVee had not reached the Indian shores, sometime in 2011 is when we had the Schloss Gobelsburger Gruner Veltliner. I have been happily using the wine for many of my tastings since however anything beyond 2 years old was a strict no-no, until the Austrian wine Summit 2015 happened for us. I was in Austria exploring its wines and also tasted a GruVee from 1983.

Gruner Veltliner is a white grape variety; a factor that one cannot miss about this grape is its bracing acidity. A high yielding variety it can be spicy and peppery or can be laden with stone fruits depending from where it comes from. It is known to come from North-east and east of Austria, generic regions being the Niederosterreich (Lower Austria) and Burgenland.  29.5% of Austria’s vineyard area is planted with Gruvee, 13518 hectares to be precise a big cut given a total of 35 grape varieties, 22 white and 13 red are used to make quality wines in the country.  Niederosterreich is the most important regions for the grape and around 44% of the area has GruVee vines. Specific regions within Lower Austria are Traisental, Kremstal, Weinviertel, Wien (Vienna), Wachau, Wagram and Kamptal, the last one is where the Schloss Gobelsburger available in the country comes from.  Weinvartel the northern most wine growing area is known for the most peppery and sharp Gruners. 

GruVees could either be in its ‘Klassik’ version showing pure fruit and a minimum of 12% alcohol or it could be a ‘Reserve’ showing subtle botrytis or oak notes in addition and contains a minimum of 13 % alcohol. Both these versions come dry with a maximum of 6 grams/litre of sugar. If a mention of botrytis (a fungus which concentrates grape sugars and affects taste) did not ring a bell yet, it should have or perhaps you knew it already! Botrytis and dry white wines are not often spoken of in the same breath as the former is associated with sweet wines; however most of GruVee areas are located near tributaries of the Danube and are thus prone to Botrytis. Vineyard management is done to avoid growth for dry wine making however in reserve wines some of it is allowed to grow for added complexity.

Lastly the epic tasting of 100 wines by over 150 wine professionals from across the globe at the Palais Niederosterreich, Vienna was an eye-opener for me; needless to say I was a part of the tasting.  We tasted wines from 2014 all the way back to 1983 and it was quite overwhelming.  Based on the tasting, below is a list of wines which stood out for your perusal. 

Kremstal:
2014 Stift Gottweig, Gottweiger Berg
2012 Josef Schmid GMBH, Kremser Gebling, Reserve
1985 MantlerHof, Gedersdorf (Herbacoeus, Mineral, medium body, high acidity)
Wachau:
2013 Hirtzberger, Federspiel
2012 Pichler Krutzler, Durnsteiner Wnderberg
2010 Tegernseerhof, Smaragd
Weinviertel:
2014 Bauer Norbert, Diermannsee
2013 Pfaffl, Grossebersdorfer Kirchenberg, Reserve
1983 Malteser Ritterorden, Hundschupfen ( Pale gold, feminine, elegant incredible for its age)
Kamptal:
2014 Kirchmayr, Strasser Stangl
2013, Topf, Heiligenstein, Reserve
2010 Topf Johann, Ofenberg, Reserve
Traisental:
2014 Neumayer, Engelberg
2013 Siedler, Reserve
2013 Huber, reserve      
Wagram:
2014 Josef Bauer
2013 Leth, Gigama, reserve
2012 Wimmer Czerny , Unfiltered 

Austrian exports have gone up 100% to approx 150 Mn Euros in the last decade and Gruvee certainly has a role to play here. I don’t care as much if GruVee is already a ‘big thing’ as long as I get a zingy glass of it with a blob of fresh sheep cheese and a piece of laugenstang.

P.S: For those interesting in sparkling wines or Sekt as they are called, Steininger or Szigeti should be worthy choice.

Prost!