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For much of the Indian wine market, Argentina remains a simple proposition: Mendoza, Malbec, altitude. It is a shorthand that worked remarkably well. Malbec gave Argentina a global identity, Mendoza supplied scale, and the Andes provided a romantic story of sun, elevation, and cold nights. Yet spending time with producers across Mendoza reveals that this perception is increasingly incomplete. The more compelling Argentine story today is not simply about vineyard elevation. It is about what happens when producers ask precise, micro-level questions: Which part of Mendoza? Which side of a valley? Which soil structure? Which parcel? This shift is visible across producers with different histories. At Zuccardi, research centres on individual soil profiles. At Catena Zapata, decades of work turned high-altitude viticulture from an experiment into a fine-wine benchmark. At Bodega Norton, historic Semillon sits alongside experimental Grüner Veltliner in the high Uco Valley. And Kaiken, founded by Chilean winemaker Aurelio Montes, approaches Mendoza with an outsider’s curiosity, exploring new terroirs rather than treating the region as a monolith. Beyond the Malbec Shorthand Malbec remains central to Argentina, but assuming the country can be understood primarily through grape variety deserves reconsideration. The transformation of Mendoza's premium sector is about moving from variety to place. Catena Zapata pioneered this movement. When Nicolás Catena began exploring the Uco Valley in the 1990s, planting Malbec at the Adrianna Vineyard was a radical gamble. Adrianna sits at roughly 1,450 metres in Gualtallary, while Nicasia in Paraje Altamira lies at 1,095 metres. Though both are high-altitude sites, their soils, UV exposure, and topography yield fundamentally different growing environments. "High altitude" is a useful starting point, but an incomplete descriptor. At Adrianna, intense UV radiation, cool temperatures, and calcareous alluvial soils contribute to a distinct structural tension. Nicasia, despite its Uco Valley address, offers a completely different soil profile and microclimate. Catena's research through the Catena Institute of Wine helped turn these observations into a systematic study of how micro-terroir alters wine expression. From Altitude to Soil If Catena established altitude, Zuccardi is taking the conversation underground. A visit to Zuccardi Valle de Uco begins in soil pits, not the tasting room. Hernán del Río from the winery's I+D (R&D) team walks guests through these excavations before pouring wines from San Pablo, Gualtallary, and Paraje Altamira, making the connection between geology and the glass immediate. Working across alluvial soils containing sand, gravel, granite, and limestone, Zuccardi divides vineyards into precise irrigation and soil-management units to track parcel behavior. Comparing their 2021 Aluvional Malbecs from San Pablo and Gualtallary demonstrates how two high-altitude sites shape the same variety differently. The distinction grows even more granular with Gravascal and Supercal—two tiny parcel bottlings within Piedra Infinita in Paraje Altamira—which reflect soil changes across just a few meters. The question is no longer whether Malbec grows well in Mendoza, but how it responds to a hyper-specific patch of earth. The White Wines Enhance the Picture This shift becomes even more compelling with white varieties. At Zuccardi, Chardonnays from San Pablo and Gualtallary prove site specificity isn't reserved for reds. Sourced from cold, high-altitude plots (~1,400m) with granite stones coated in limestone, bottlings like Finca Las Cuchillas yield razor-sharp, mineral-driven whites with zero flab. At Bodega Norton, tasting a historic 1959 Semillón alongside modern releases offers rare perspective. Once widespread before being overshadowed by Malbec, Norton has revived the variety using old-vine plots in Paraje Altamira, linking Mendoza's white-wine heritage with a modern focus on age-worthy whites. Norton extends this logic with its pioneering Lote Blanco Grüner Veltliner from San Pablo (1,425–1,450m). Intense sunlight and cold nights give this Austrian grape an aromatic, peppery expression far removed from the classic Mendoza template—offering Indian consumers a fresh entry point into Argentine geography. A Chilean Lens Across the Andes Kaiken adds an outsider's perspective. Founded in 2002 by Chilean winemaker Aurelio Montes, Kaiken was built on a cross-border view. Rather than treating Mendoza as an extension of Chile, Montes set out to explore what Argentine soils could produce on their own terms. This is best seen in Kaiken's Aventura line: Los Chacayes Norte (~1,250m): Old alluvial fans rich in calcium carbonate produce a tightly structured, mineral-driven Malbec. Los Chacayes Sur: Deeper gravelly soils yield a rounder, fruit-forward profile. Valle de Canota (~1,050–1,150m): A cooler pre-Andean site produces a leaner Malbec lifted by wild herbs and floral aromatics. Three Malbecs from one producer, telling three distinct geological stories. Heritage as Innovation The modern Argentine story isn't solely about new high-altitude frontiers; history provides vital balance. Founded in 1895 in Luján de Cuyo, Bodega Norton maintains century-old vineyards and a library cellar dating back to 1936. Its current portfolio bridges continuity and experimentation—balancing historic Luján de Cuyo vineyards with high-elevation Uco Valley projects. Wine regions do not evolve by abandoning their past. Historic vines and established sites serve as reference points against which newer interpretations are measured. What This Means for India
For the Indian consumer, Argentina is already familiar. The opportunity now is to deepen the conversation. Malbec will remain central, but trade and consumers should begin distinguishing between sub-regions—understanding why a Gualtallary Malbec isn't interchangeable with one from Paraje Altamira, Los Chacayes, or Canota. The same applies to high-altitude Chardonnays, historic Semillons, and cool-climate Grüner Veltliners. As India's wine market grows more curious about origin and gastronomy, consumers want to understand why one bottle differs from another beyond price point. A More Precise Argentina The most revealing change in Argentine winemaking isn't that producers pushed further up the mountain slopes—it is that they learned to listen to specific sites. Altitude and Malbec built Argentina's global presence, but they are no longer the whole story. The real reward lies in discovering an Argentina that expresses itself one micro-terroir at a time.
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The Andes mountains divide Chile and Argentina, but for Kaiken, they serve as a bridge.Founded in 2002 by Chilean winemaker Aurelio Montes—co-founder of Viña Montes—Kaiken takes its name from the caiquén, a wild Patagonian goose that routinely crosses the Andean cordillera. Rather than mirroring a traditional estate expanding into new valleys, Kaiken began with an outsider’s curiosity: a Chilean producer bringing technical expertise across the border to examine what Mendoza’s distinct terroirs could achieve on their own terms.During our visit, tasting alongside Juan Pablo Yáñez (export manager) revealed how that original cross-border concept has evolved into an agile portfolio spanning two primary pillars: traditional, lower-elevation sites in Luján de Cuyo and high-altitude, cool-climate micro-terroirs across the Uco Valley and extreme pre-Andean sites in the Canota Valley. The Core Philosophy: Variety and Regional Depth Montes brought decades of Chilean winemaking experience to Argentina, but Kaiken was never intended to produce Chilean-style wines on Argentine soil. Instead, the winery built its foundation around matching specific grape varieties to the soils of these two major regions. This perspective is evident in the Kaiken Ultra range. While single-varietal 100% Malbec remains central, the range gives equal weight to 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from historical vineyards in Luján, alongside 100% Cabernet Franc from cooler Uco Valley sub-zones. The Kaiken Ultra Chardonnay (100% Chardonnay) brings those two distinct environments together, blending fruit from classic Vistalba with high-altitude, calcareous blocks in Gualtallary to achieve a balance of rich texture and crisp mountain acidity. Sub-Zones and Soil Studies: Comparing Chacayes North, South, and Canota As the winery expanded its scope, its focus shifted from broad regional identities to targeted micro-terroir studies. A highlight of our tasting was examining how 100% Malbec behaves across three distinct sites within the Aventura series:
Collaborations, Blends, and Icons
The upper tier of Kaiken’s portfolio reflects a willingness to challenge established formulas through multi-varietal blends and single-parcel selections:
Kaiken began when a Chilean producer crossed the Andes to make wine in Argentina. More than two decades later, the project stands as an active participant in mapping Mendoza's internal diversity—from historic lowland vineyards to the extreme, high-altitude parcels of Gualtallary, Los Chacayes, and Canota. At Bodega Norton, history is not preserved as a static artifact. It remains active in the vineyards, the subterranean cellars, and the evolution of the wines. Our visit brought together several distinct chapters of that trajectory. Tasting with a vineyard specialist Gonzalo Ortiz Maldonado who is now on the commercial side of things and enologist Marcos Hernán Scarel López, followed by conversations over lunch with the CEO Tomás Lange, highlighted Norton's broader identity: a century-old house balancing its established roots in Luján de Cuyo with high-altitude experimentation in the Uco Valley. From Railway Engineering to Viticulture Norton's origins trace to 1895, when English engineer Edmund James Palmer Norton arrived in Argentina to build the Transandine Railway connecting Mendoza with Chile. Settling in the foothills of the Andes, he acquired land in Perdriel, establishing the first major vineyard south of the Mendoza River. By 1910, Norton had integrated its production into the very rail network its founder helped construct. The winery's estate-bottled wines were served in dining cars crossing the Andes and shipped directly to Buenos Aires. This early focus on origin and distribution set a precedent that continues to define the winery's international focus today. The Austrian Era and the Historic Cellar A significant shift occurred in 1989 when Austrian entrepreneur Gernot Langes-Swarovski acquired the estate. His tenure expanded Norton’s global footprint while establishing a disciplined approach to library storage.Langes-Swarovski formalized the preservation of Norton's historic cellar in Perdriel, which today holds vintages dating back to 1936—one of the most extensive collections of aged Argentine wines in South America. Rather than serving merely as museum pieces, these older bottles function as benchmark references for the aging potential of historic Mendoza terroirs. The 1959 Semillón and White Wine Heritage Among the bottles tasted, the most compelling reference point was a historic 1959 Semillón. Semillón holds deep roots in Mendoza's viticultural history, though it was largely overshadowed during Malbec’s commercial expansion. Norton's contemporary Semillón project directly references that 1959 vintage. Sourced from high-altitude vines in Paraje Altamira (~1,100 meters), the modern bottling links historic vinification styles with current efforts to produce structured, age-worthy white wines. Varietal Innovation: Grüner Veltliner in San Pablo The contemporary portfolio demonstrates that historical preservation has not restricted technical experimentation. In the Uco Valley, the Altura White Blend integrates Sauvignon Blanc, Semillón, and Grüner Veltliner. The winery took this commitment further with Lote Blanco Grüner Veltliner—making Norton the first producer in South America to cultivate and bottle the Austrian variety. Grown in San Pablo at 1,450 meters, the wine benefits from extreme high-altitude UV radiation and cool nocturnal temperatures, yielding high natural acidity and distinct mineral focus. Bridging Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley
Norton's geographical evolution is reflected in its red wine program:
Many historic wineries rely on longevity as a marketing asset. At Bodega Norton, the past serves a pragmatic function. The historic cellar provides perspective on longevity; the original Luján de Cuyo vineyards offer structural continuity; and the cool-climate Uco Valley sites provide room for ongoing varietal research. Walking through the historic cellar and tasting across six decades of production clarifies Norton's position: it is not merely a surviving 19th-century estate, but a producer actively applying its historic context to contemporary viticulture. Mendoza's modern wine story cannot be told without Catena Zapata. Our visit began with the Head of Hospitality; Caroline Fuller, who took us through the winery and its history before we sat down for a tasting with Winemaker Ernesto Bajda and Export Director Marcelo Marasco. The combination of the tour and the wines offered a useful perspective on the Catena story: its long pursuit of altitude, its work with different vineyard sites, and its role in establishing Argentina as a producer of serious, age-worthy fine wines. The Roots of a Century-Old Vision That story began in 1898 when Nicola Catena, an Italian immigrant from Marche, arrived in Mendoza. In 1902, he planted his first Malbec vineyard in Lunlunta, naming it Angélica in honor of his mother. For decades, the family produced wine in the traditional Argentine style—concentrating on volume and local consumption. The turning point came in the early 1980s. While serving as a visiting professor of economics at UC Berkeley, Nicola's grandson, Nicolás Catena Zapata, spent time in Napa Valley. Watching California winemakers successfully challenge European classics by matching French varieties to specific California microclimates convinced Nicolás that Argentina could do the same. Upon returning to Mendoza, he sold off the family's table-wine division to focus entirely on premium fine wine, embarking on a search for cooler terroirs that took him beyond traditional regions and into the high-altitude reaches of the Uco Valley. Going Higher In the 1990s, Nicolás began planting where others thought grapes would never ripen. Adrianna Vineyard in Gualtallary was planted at around 1,460 metres, while Nicasia Vineyard in Paraje Altamira sits at approximately 1,095 metres. At the time, planting Malbec at such elevations was considered a massive agricultural risk. The significance of altitude at Catena is not simply that the vineyards are high; elevation fundamentally changes the conditions under which the vines ripen. At Adrianna, the combination of high altitude, intense ultraviolet sunlight, and cool mountain temperatures produces a very different growing environment from Mendoza's warmer, lower-lying plains. To scientifically back these observations, Dr. Laura Catena founded the Catena Institute of Wine in 1995. The Institute’s research demonstrated higher natural acidity, distinct minerality, denser tannins in Malbec, and exceptional focus in Chardonnay grown at these extreme heights. The decision to plant Adrianna was no longer just an experiment in cool-climate viticulture; it became the scientific foundation of modern Argentine fine wine. Adrianna: Where the Experiment Became a Vineyard The Adrianna Vineyard wines we tasted provided perhaps the clearest expression of this philosophy. The Chardonnay and Malbec come from the same broad site, yet demonstrate why Catena has spent decades studying the vineyard in detail. Adrianna sits in Gualtallary at close to 1,500 metres, on alluvial soils covered with gravel and calcareous deposits. Catena's research into the vineyard eventually moved beyond simply identifying the site as "high altitude" to understanding the micro-parcel variations within it. Nicasia: Another Expression of Malbec The Nicasia 2023 Malbec offered a useful contrast. Nicasia is in Paraje Altamira, in the southern part of the Uco Valley, at around 1,095 metres. Its position, soils, and climatic conditions differ noticeably from those of Adrianna. Catena describes the vineyard as having shallow soils with gravel and large rounded stones, providing strong drainage. The distinction between Nicasia and Adrianna is central to understanding Catena's approach. Both are high-altitude vineyards, but altitude alone does not make them interchangeable. Catena's 2023 harvest report makes this point particularly well: while spring frost severely reduced yields across lower sites in Mendoza, Adrianna was largely spared due to its steep slope and cold-air drainage, whereas Nicasia experienced a greater reduction in yields. Determining the right harvest moment for each specific parcel remains paramount. From Malbec to Argentina's Cabernet The tasting also moved beyond Malbec. The Birth of Cabernet 2022 and Nicolás Catena Zapata 2022 demonstrated another important aspect of the Catena project: the ambition was never to make Argentina synonymous only with Malbec. Cabernet Sauvignon has been part of the family's high-end winemaking programme for decades. The flagship Nicolás Catena Zapata blend draws on several historic vineyards—including La Pirámide, Domingo, Adrianna, and Nicasia—bringing together distinct terroir profiles rather than relying on a single site. This evolution demonstrates that Mendoza could produce serious, age-worthy wines across multiple varieties. Malbec Argentino: More Than a Wine Malbec Argentino 2022 sits at the center of that history. Built around old vines from the family's Angélica and Nicasia vineyards, the vines derive from a proprietary massal selection originating from the historic Angélica Vineyard ("Catena Cuttings"). The wine represents more than a single vintage; it is an expression of the family's long experiment with Malbec—from its Mendoza roots to the high-altitude sites that eventually changed the direction of Argentine wine. That history is deliberately reflected in the wine's label, which traces Malbec's journey from France to Argentina and its subsequent revival in the New World. What Catena Changed
The most important contribution of Catena Zapata may ultimately have little to do with any individual bottle. Nicolás Catena's decision to plant at elevations where ripening was considered risky helped establish a new direction for Mendoza. The family subsequently invested heavily in research into climate, soils, vineyard micro-zones, and Malbec selection. Today, high-altitude Mendoza is central to the identity of Argentine fine wine. But that is easier to appreciate when you understand how unconventional the idea once was. Our tasting with Ernesto Bajda and Marcelo Marasco brought that history into focus. The Adrianna Chardonnay and Malbec showed the potential of one of Mendoza's most important high-altitude sites; Nicasia demonstrated how another vineyard could produce a distinctly different expression; Malbec Argentino connected those vineyards to the family's longer Malbec story; and Nicolás Catena Zapata showed that the ambition extends far beyond one grape variety. The Legacy of the High-Altitude Experiment Catena Zapata's story is often told through altitude, and for good reason. But altitude was only the beginning. The more important achievement was recognising that Mendoza could not be understood as one homogeneous wine region. Different elevations, soils, exposures, and climatic conditions could produce wines with very different identities—and those differences were worth studying rather than blending away. That is what makes Catena Zapata significant. The winery did not simply take Argentine wine higher into the Andes; it helped make high altitude itself part of the vocabulary of Argentine fine wine. A visit to Zuccardi Valle de Uco is a useful reminder that the Uco Valley is not a single terroir. The region encompasses different elevations, soil types, climates, and vineyard locations, and Zuccardi has spent years trying to understand how those differences influence the wines. An Engine of Innovation: From Water to Wine There is a historical irony in how Zuccardi became a wine producer. In 1950, engineer Alberto "Tito" Zuccardi arrived in Mendoza to design and install agricultural irrigation systems in the high-altitude desert. To prove the effectiveness of his irrigation technology to skeptical local farmers, Tito planted a demonstration vineyard in Maipú in 1963. What began as an engineering trial laid the foundation for three generations of viticultural exploration. Today, that engineering DNA continues to shape the family's approach in the Uco Valley. Drip irrigation is no longer used simply to deliver water to vines; it has been transformed into a tool for micro-terroir precision. Because alluvial gravels, clay, and calcareous stones hold water at vastly different rates, Zuccardi maps soil pits extensively to divide single vineyards into precise irrigation blocks—ensuring each parcel receives tailored hydration without masking site identity. Our visit began with Hernán del Río from the winery's I+D—Investigación y Desarrollo, or Research & Development—team. Rather than going straight to the tasting, Hernán took us through the soil pits, explaining the different layers, stones, and calcareous material found beneath the vineyards. The tasting that followed made those observations considerably more relevant. We tasted wines from San Pablo, Gualtallary, and Paraje Altamira, including Chardonnay, Semillón, Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon. We also tasted Gravascal and Supercal, two wines that take the investigation down to an individual parcel level. It provided a good introduction to what makes the Zuccardi Valle de Uco project distinctive: a sustained effort to understand the differences within the Uco Valley rather than treating it as one homogeneous wine region. From Malbec to Terroir Argentina's international wine identity is closely associated with Mendoza and Malbec. At Zuccardi Valle de Uco, however, the emphasis has progressively shifted from variety to site. The winery's vineyards extend across Paraje Altamira, Gualtallary, and San Pablo, at elevations ranging from approximately 1,060 to 1,400 metres. The sites differ in climate, exposure, and, particularly, soil composition. Zuccardi works with alluvial soils containing varying proportions of sand, gravel, granite, and calcareous material. This has led the winery to develop wines at several levels of geographical precision—from regional and paraje wines to individual Finca wines and, eventually, wines from specific parcels. The approach is particularly evident when comparing wines made from the same variety but different locations. San Pablo and Gualtallary The 2021 Aluvional Malbecs from San Pablo and Gualtallary were among the most useful wines in the tasting for understanding this approach. Both are Malbecs from the Uco Valley, but the sites produce noticeably different expressions. San Pablo, at higher elevations and closer to the Andes, has a cooler climate and distinctive calcareous and alluvial soils. Gualtallary, also a high-altitude area, has its own combination of gravel, sand, caliche, and calcareous material—a heterogeneity that is also expressed in wines like Finca Las Cerrilladas. This is an important aspect of Zuccardi's philosophy. Rather than asking only how Malbec performs in the Uco Valley, the winery is interested in understanding how Malbec responds to individual environments within the valley. Chardonnay Shows the Same Differences The comparison becomes particularly interesting with Chardonnay. We tasted Fósil, from San Pablo, and Botánico, from Gualtallary. Both are high-altitude Chardonnays, but they come from distinctly different environments. Fósil comes from Estancia, in the San Pablo IG, at around 1,400 metres. The vineyard is close to the Andes and has a cold climate and calcareous soils. Botánico comes from Gualtallary at approximately 1,360–1,385 metres and is associated with calcareous soils and the native vegetation of the area. The wines demonstrate why Zuccardi's research extends beyond Malbec. The same question is being asked of different varieties: how much of the character in the glass can be attributed to the site? We also tasted Finca Las Cuchillas Chardonnay 2023, another wine from San Pablo. At around 1,400 metres, Las Cuchillas is a particularly cold site, with severe frosts and alluvial soils containing granite stones covered with calcareous material. Zuccardi describes the wine in terms of freshness, precision, and austerity rather than richness. Los Membrillos: A Different Side of Altamira Los Membrillos Semillón 2021 brought a different dimension to the tasting. The vineyard is in Paraje Altamira at around 1,060 metres and is an older planting. It retains several traditional features, including furrow irrigation and algarrobo posts, and the vineyard is surrounded by quince trees—the origin of its name. Semillón also has an important historical connection with Mendoza. It was once much more widely planted and is now experiencing renewed interest among producers looking for varieties that can express the region's cooler, higher-altitude sites. We also tasted Los Membrillos Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, which reinforced the fact that Zuccardi's work in the Uco Valley is not limited to Malbec. The variety may have become Argentina's international calling card, but the winery's broader interest is in understanding the interaction between variety and site. Piedra Infinita Piedra Infinita Malbec 2021 takes us back to Paraje Altamira and one of Zuccardi's most important vineyards. Piedra Infinita is located at around 1,100 metres on the alluvial plain of the Tunuyán River. The soils contain large stones and gravel covered with calcareous material, with considerable variation within the vineyard itself. The winery's work at Piedra Infinita illustrates the progression in its thinking. Initially, the focus was on understanding the vineyard as a whole. Over time, increasingly detailed soil studies led to the identification of individual parcels with distinct characteristics. That brings us to Gravascal and Supercal. From Vineyard to Parcel Gravascal and Supercal represent a much more detailed level of terroir selection. Both come from very small parcels within Piedra Infinita, but the soil characteristics are different. Gravascal is associated with large gravel and granite stones covered by calcareous material, while Supercal comes from an area with particularly high concentrations of calcareous material covering the surface stones. The wines are therefore not simply “premium Malbecs from Altamira.” They are attempts to demonstrate what happens when the winery isolates particular soil characteristics within an already defined vineyard. This is where the role of the I+D team becomes especially relevant. The Role of I+D Zuccardi's Research & Development programme is central to its work in the Uco Valley. The team investigates soils, vineyard sites, varieties, irrigation, and other factors that influence the character of the wines. Hernán del Río was able to put that work into context during our visit, taking us through the soil pits before leading the tasting. Seeing the soil profiles and then tasting wines from different locations made the relationship between the vineyard work and the finished wines much easier to understand. Laura Principiano and the Winemaking Approach
Laura Principiano has been an important part of Zuccardi's development in the Uco Valley. An agronomist by training, she joined Sebastián Zuccardi's team in 2009 and subsequently became a leading figure in the winery's enology and research work. Her approach is closely aligned with the broader philosophy of the project: understand the vineyard first and then use winemaking to preserve its characteristics rather than imposing a predetermined style. Laura met us for the Supercal tasting, which was an appropriate wine through which to discuss the philosophy. Supercal represents one of the most detailed levels of Zuccardi's vineyard work, moving from region to area, from area to vineyard, and from vineyard to a very specific soil profile. What the Wines Show The tasting demonstrated that Zuccardi's work is not dependent on one variety or one style:
A Different Way of Looking at the Uco Valley Zuccardi's contribution to the Uco Valley is not simply the production of highly rated wines. It is the amount of attention the winery has devoted to understanding the region's internal diversity. The work involves viticulture, soil studies, research, experimentation, and winemaking. It also requires a willingness to accept that different vineyards—and even different parcels within the same vineyard—can produce wines with distinct identities. After walking through the soil pits with Hernán del Río and tasting the wines that followed, that philosophy becomes considerably easier to understand. The Uco Valley is often described in terms of altitude. At Zuccardi, the conversation goes considerably further. It is about which altitude, which village, which vineyard, which soil, and, increasingly, which parcel. Spend enough time talking to Stefano Gandolini and one thing becomes clear: he looks at Chile through its vineyards. His career has taken him from Chile to Italy, Bordeaux and California, and back again, but the international experience seems to have strengthened rather than diluted his interest in what Chile can do on its own terms. One Winery. One Wine. One Idea. What makes Gandolini unusual is its almost obsessive focus. The winery makes just one wine: Las 3 Marías Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. There is no second wine designed to broaden the portfolio, no collection of different varieties and no attempt to cover multiple price points. Everything is concentrated on a single proposition: Cabernet Sauvignon from Maipo Andes, made in limited quantities. The vineyards around Buin were planted between 2001 and 2005, the first harvest was in 2011 and the wine was released commercially only in 2014. That slow beginning is revealing. Gandolini was never conceived simply as another Chilean wine label. It was an attempt to spend decades understanding one place and asking what it could produce from Cabernet Sauvignon. For Stefano, that degree of focus matters. His experience in some of the world's most respected wine regions appears to have reinforced the belief that greatness is often found through specificity rather than variety. If the objective is to understand a terroir, making one wine removes distractions. Every vintage becomes another opportunity to examine the same vineyard, the same grape and the same philosophy. Soil, Texture and the Médoc At the heart of that philosophy is Maipo Andes. Gandolini's vineyards sit on ancient alluvial terraces, with deep soils containing stones and gravel, together with clay that helps retain water. The soils are relatively poor and well drained, conditions that naturally restrict vigour and encourage the vines to explore deeper into the soil. High-density planting and controlled irrigation add another level of precision to the viticulture. Stefano draws a particularly interesting comparison with the great First Growth vineyards of the Médoc. It is not simply a claim that Maipo can produce Cabernet Sauvignon of Bordeaux's quality. His interest is in the relationship between soil and texture. The gravelly, poor soils of the Médoc have long been associated with Cabernet wines that combine concentration with structure, length and finesse; Gandolini sees a similar potential in the alluvial terraces of Maipo Andes. For him, the goal is therefore not simply extraction or power. It is the feel of the wine. Concentration should be accompanied by finesse; tannin should provide structure without becoming aggressive; and the wine should have depth without becoming heavy. That is perhaps the most interesting way to understand Gandolini. Texture becomes a form of terroir. The ambition is to create a Cabernet in which the richness of Maipo is balanced by the elegance and precision that Stefano associates with the world's great Cabernet vineyards. Four Vintages, One Expression The 2013, 2014, 2015, and 2020 vintages tasted do not represent fundamentally different wine styles created to demonstrate the winery's range; they are distinct chapters of a single, continuous idea. With time in the bottle, the central focus of the glass naturally evolves. The punchy primary cassis and plush oak that dominate a youthful bottle like the vibrant 2020 gradually recede, creating space for the structural tension of the warmer 2014 or the seamless balance of the 2015. As the wine moves toward the savory cedar, graphite, and secondary earthiness now emerging in the 2013, the tannins soften and the inherent acidity brings everything into line. Tasting these four years side-by-side provides a direct test of the philosophy behind Gandolini: proving that concentration naturally turns into genuine complexity, and firm structural tannin transforms into a refined, silky texture over time. From the Andes to the Pacific Stefano's work with Ventolera provides an intriguing counterpoint. At San Juan de Leyda, around 90 kilometres west of Santiago, the influence of the Pacific and the Humboldt Current creates a markedly cooler environment. Here, the Rare Cuvée Chardonnay shows another dimension of his approach to texture. The 2018 spent five years on its lees in new French oak and was produced in just 1,184 bottles, creating a wine that is as much about mouthfeel and persistence as it is about Chardonnay fruit.The contrast is significant. Gandolini is an expression of the Andean side of Chile, built around Cabernet and ancient alluvial soils; Ventolera explores the cooler Pacific influence. Yet both reveal the same instinct in Stefano: to understand how a site can shape the physical character of a wine rather than allowing winemaking to dominate it. La Bottega Gandolini
La Bottega Gandolini is perhaps the clearest expression of the family behind the wine. Opened in Santiago in 2023 and developed by the younger generation of the Gandolini family, it brings together wine, food, and the family’s Italian heritage in a way that feels considerably more personal than a conventional winery restaurant. Five siblings and cousins are involved in the project, with each contributing to the experience, while Stefano Gandolini remains the family’s winemaker. Fresh hand-crafted pastas like Fettuccine al Funghi Porcini and green spinach ravioli sit alongside wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas, artisanal La Bruschetta topped with estate produce, Italian cheeses, and charcuterie boards. There is also a distinctly broader Italian rhythm to the space. The family roasts its own coffee, makes fresh gelato, and produces its own desserts—from a classic affogato poured hot with freshly roasted espresso to Nonna's traditional tiramisu. The coffee and gelato are not peripheral additions but part of the family's attempt to recreate the full Italian experience around the table. In a world where wine portfolios are increasingly broad, that restraint is almost radical. It allows Stefano Gandolini to keep returning to the same question: what can this place, this soil and this grape say when given enough time? His answer is found not in the number of wines he makes, but in how deeply he is prepared to pursue one. There are ideas in wine that arrive long before the world is ready for them. Sometimes they disappear because the technology does not yet exist to make them practical. Sometimes they return decades later, when circumstances have changed and an old question suddenly becomes relevant again. At Viña Teillery in Maipo, that story begins with José Teillery. When I met his daughter Solange, she described a philosophy her father had carried for decades: that wine should, in many ways, be made naturally, as it was in ancient times. It was not a reaction to the modern natural-wine movement. It came much earlier. During his time studying enology in Bordeaux, José had already questioned the role of sulphites in winemaking, going as far as presenting a thesis on their use — and particularly on the possibility of not using them. The idea was ahead of its time. The technology and cellar conditions required to make such wines consistently were simply not where they needed to be. What was theoretically possible was not necessarily practically achievable. Decades later, however, technology had caught up with the idea. And Teillery was ready to try again. An Idea Born in Bordeaux José Teillery's connection with wine began long before the current natural-wine conversation. His family had French Basque roots, with Joseph Teillery arriving in Chile from Cambo in the French Basque Country. José himself studied agronomy at the Universidad de Chile before pursuing enology in Bordeaux. It was there, in the early 1960s, that his thinking about sulphites began to take shape. According to accounts of his career, José presented a thesis in Bordeaux in 1963 examining the use — and especially the non-use — of sulphites in wine. At a time when sulphites were an established and important tool in winemaking, questioning their necessity was hardly an obvious direction to take. The problem was not necessarily the idea itself. The problem was control. Without the protection that sulphites could provide, winemaking became considerably less forgiving. Oxidation, microbial spoilage and instability could turn a philosophical proposition into a commercial failure. The cellar simply did not have the level of technological control that modern winemakers could eventually access. So the idea waited. to answer it. The Romans and the Idea of Natural Wine Solange recalls her father's philosophy in remarkably simple terms: wine should be made naturally, as the Romans did. Whether one looks at that literally or philosophically, the idea is revealing. It was not about creating a new category called natural wine. It was about going back to the fundamentals of fermentation and allowing grapes to become wine with as little intervention as possible. The irony is that returning to an older way of thinking eventually required some very modern tools. That is perhaps what makes Teillery's story more interesting than simply calling it an early natural-wine producer. José was not trying to follow a trend that did not yet exist. He was pursuing a question that had occupied him since his education in Bordeaux. Could wine be made successfully with fewer interventions? And if so, what would be required to make it reliable? Waiting for Technology to Catch Up By the 1990s, the circumstances had changed. The Teillery family began seriously revisiting José's earlier ideas, eventually establishing the winery project in Isla de Maipo in 1997. The vineyard was developed around organic principles, with the family seeking a site that could be worked with fewer external inputs and with greater control over the surrounding environment. The difference between José's original thesis and what became possible decades later was not necessarily a change in philosophy. It was a change in capability. Better temperature control, improved understanding of fermentation, more precise cellar equipment and, importantly, much greater attention to sanitation meant that winemakers could attempt things that had previously carried unacceptable levels of risk. The technology had not replaced the original idea. It had finally made the idea workable. Natural Does Not Mean Neglected This is perhaps the most important part of the Teillery story. There is a tendency to assume that natural winemaking means doing less. In reality, removing interventions can make the winemaker's job considerably more demanding. Solange emphasised to me that hygiene is crucial. That makes complete sense. When sulphites are not being used as part of the wine's protection, the margin for poor cellar hygiene becomes smaller. Every surface, vessel, hose and piece of equipment matters. Healthy grapes matter. Fermentation management matters. Handling matters. The less you add, the more disciplined you have to be about everything else. That is the paradox of Teillery's philosophy. What appears to be minimal intervention from the outside can require maximum attention behind the scenes. From Theory to Total
Eventually, the idea that had existed first as a thesis and then as a family philosophy became a wine. Total represents the most uncompromising expression of that journey. The wine is made from organically grown grapes without added sulphites, taking José's original question to its logical conclusion. The significance of Total 2019 is therefore greater than what is written on its label. The Vineyard Comes First But the Teillery story does not begin in the cellar. The family's organic approach extends back to the vineyard itself. The Los Guindos property in Isla de Maipo was selected and developed with organic cultivation in mind, with the objective of working in greater harmony with the surrounding environment and avoiding unnecessary chemical inputs. This is significant because the winery's philosophy cannot be reduced to what happens after the grapes arrive. If the objective is to intervene less during winemaking, the quality and health of the grapes become even more important. In that sense, organic viticulture and sulphite-free winemaking are not two separate ideas at Teillery. They are parts of the same continuum. Two Wines, One Journey That journey is particularly interesting when tasted through two very different Teillery wines: Total 2019 and the Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2018. Total is the obvious statement of intent. It represents the culmination of José's decades-old interest in reducing intervention and making wine without added sulphites. It is the wine where the original Bordeaux question is most clearly visible in the bottle. The Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 provides a different perspective. Cabernet Sauvignon has a long and established history in Chile, and a Reserva wine sits within a much more familiar framework of Chilean winemaking. Yet placing it alongside Total reveals something important: Teillery's philosophy is not dependent on producing only wines that fit neatly into the natural-wine category. The Cabernet allows the family to express a more classical side of Chilean wine while remaining grounded in the same attention to vineyard health and Organic winemaking. An Idea That Outlived Its Time José Teillery may have looked to the past for inspiration, but the wines that eventually emerged from his philosophy could only have been made when the tools of modern winemaking caught up. That is what makes Teillery worth looking at today. The story is not simply about organic vineyards or sulphite-free wine. It is about an old idea surviving long enough to become practical. It is about a winemaker questioning convention before there was a movement built around that question. And perhaps most importantly, it is a reminder that innovation in wine does not always mean inventing something new. Sometimes it means asking an old question again — and waiting until the world has finally developed the means There is an uncomfortable assumption in wine that size and individuality rarely coexist. The bigger a winery becomes, the more difficult it seems to preserve the things that make wine interesting: a sense of place, the personality of a vineyard, the quirks of an old vine or the differences between one vintage and another. Scale brings efficiency and consistency, but somewhere along the way, the argument goes, wine can become more about the brand than the land. Luis Felipe Edwards is an interesting counterpoint. Today, LFE has more than 2,000 hectares of vineyards across Chile. It has the infrastructure and production capabilities of a substantial international winery. Yet spend time looking at where those vineyards are and, more importantly, why they were planted, and a different picture begins to emerge. There is Colchagua, where the family story began. There are vineyards climbing to 900 metres in the Andes foothills. There are vineyards close to the Pacific in Leyda. There are old País and Cinsault vines in Itata. The interesting question isn't whether a large winery can make good wine. Of course it can. The more interesting question is whether a large winery can still make wine that feels special. It Started With Colchagua The story starts in 1976, when Luis Felipe Edwards Sr and his wife returned from Europe and purchased Fundo San José de Puquillay in Colchagua. The property had 60 hectares of planted vineyards, a small winery and a historic farmhouse, sitting in a horseshoe-shaped valley against the foothills of the Andes. It was a very different Chilean wine industry then. The early years were about agriculture, vineyards and selling wine in bulk. The family gradually expanded its landholding, eventually reaching a point where it could begin thinking beyond simply growing grapes and supplying wine. The decisive change came in the 1990s, when LFE began bottling under its own name. The first wines appeared in 1995, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, and the family began building a winery that could take its wines into international markets.Growth followed. But what is interesting about LFE's evolution is that geographical expansion did not lead to one increasingly uniform style. Instead, the family began looking for places that could give them something different. Going Higher: The LFE900 Experiment One of those places was directly above their original Colchagua vineyards. At Puquillay Alto, LFE began developing vineyards at progressively higher elevations, eventually reaching around 900 metres. The LFE900 project is now a 140-hectare mountain vineyard, planted between 2005 and 2011. At first glance, it might sound like another Chilean high-altitude project. But the interesting part is not simply the number 900. It is the way the mountain has been treated. LFE describes the vineyard as a mosaic of blocks planted according to differences in soil and sun exposure. The geology is a complex mix of granitic and volcanic material, while the cooler average temperatures at altitude allow the grapes to ripen more slowly and evenly.Cabernet Sauvignon shares this landscape with Cabernet Franc, Carmenère, Grenache, Malbec, Merlot, Monastrell, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Tempranillo. That is where the idea of scale versus individuality starts to become interesting. Doña Bernarda: A Family Diary in a Bottle The most revealing wine in this story may be Doña Bernarda. Made since 1997 and named after Luis Felipe Edwards Sr's wife, Doña Bernarda is LFE's flagship red. Yet it is not a wine built around a rigid formula. Cabernet Sauvignon provides the foundation, while the other varieties can change according to the vintage and what the mountain vineyards deliver. The wine is sourced from the Puquillay Alto mountain vineyards, where LFE began planting at higher elevations after recognising the potential of the slopes' soils and climate. There is something quite revealing about that approach. A prestige wine is often expected to reproduce an identity year after year. Doña Bernarda instead allows the identity of the wine to evolve with the vintage. It makes the wine feel less like a recipe and more like a record of the family's understanding of the mountain. From the Andes to the Pacific If Puquillay Alto represents elevation, LFE's vineyards around Leyda provide the opposite experience. Here, the landscape falls towards the Pacific. The El Canelo estate lies around nine kilometres from the ocean, while the Atalaya estate is even closer, just 2.3 kilometres from the Pacific. These are cool-climate vineyards where maritime influence becomes a fundamental part of the equation. The soils are different too. El Canelo has alluvial soils with clay textures, gravel and exposed granitic rock, while Atalaya sits on marine-origin terraces over sandstone and quartz. The wines therefore don't need to be forced into the style of Colchagua. Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay can respond to a cooler, coastal environment. LFE's Marea range gives this side of the portfolio a clear expression, where freshness and maritime influence become as important as fruit. Marea is part of LFE's current coastal range, alongside its Leyda wines Looking Back to Move Forward The country becomes increasingly interesting when you move away from the familiar image of Cabernet and Carmenère in warm central valleys and begin looking at the vineyards that survived outside that narrative. That is where LFE's work with País and Cinsault in Itata becomes particularly relevant. The winery's Cinsault and País wines come from small producers in different parts of Itata. The País vines are more than 80 years old, while the Cinsault vines are more than 30 years old. Both are traditionally head-trained and grown on their own roots. These are varieties with history rather than fashion behind them. País arrived in Chile centuries ago and survived because generations of growers continued working with it, long before the international wine industry decided that Chile's future should be built around varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. There is something almost contradictory about a large, modern winery returning to such vineyards. What Does Scale Actually Mean?
This is where the LFE story becomes more interesting than a simple family-winery narrative. LFE is large. There is no reason to pretend otherwise. Its vineyards span more than 2,000 hectares, and its production facilities are highly modern. The winery describes itself as one of Chile's largest, with a presence in more than 100 countries. That is industrial scale. But the question is what happens between the scale of the operation and the bottle. If scale is used simply to produce more of the same wine, then size becomes a limitation. If it is used to explore altitude, coastal influence, different soils, old vineyards and heritage varieties, then size can become an advantage. The resources of a large winery can allow it to take risks that a smaller producer might not be able to afford. It can maintain vineyards in different regions. It can experiment with varieties. It can separate vineyard parcels. It can wait for a vineyard to prove itself. In that sense, LFE's size may actually be part of what makes its wines interesting. And LFE's challenge and perhaps its achievement has been to explore regions without allowing size to erase their individuality. For a large winery, that may be the hardest thing to accomplish. To grow without becoming generic. How old vines, dry farming and a forgotten grape are giving Chile’s Maule Valley a new sense of place. On Chilean National Wine Day, I found myself tasting a group of wines that seemed to share a rather unusual surname. VIGNO. The wines were made by different producers, from different vineyards and in different styles. Yet they had something fundamental in common: old-vine Carignan from the drylands of Maule. I was tasting them with two winemakers who offered two different ways of understanding the project. Pilar Miranda of Garage wine co. spoke about why VIGNO exists. Carlos Rojas of Odfjell spoke about where it comes from. Put those two perspectives together and VIGNO becomes much more than a collective label. It becomes a way of reading Maule. It began with Old Carignan For much of modern Chilean wine history, Carignan was hardly the variety one would expect to become a flagship. It was a workhorse grape, planted extensively in the drylands of Maule and often associated with inexpensive bulk wine. Yet the vineyards themselves contained something increasingly rare: old vines that had survived without irrigation, often trained as low bush vines and farmed by small growers. Today, Chile has only around 858 hectares of Carignan, with more than 700 hectares concentrated in Maule, according to VIGNO. That is tiny compared with the country's more than 40,000 hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon. The story of modern Chilean Carignan goes back to the aftermath of the 1939 earthquake. Pablo Joublan, then director of the Cauquenes Experimental Centre, promoted southern French varieties such as Carignan for the dry, warm conditions of Maule. The intention was partly to improve the colour and quality of wines based on País. The irony is that what was once regarded as an ordinary grape ended up creating one of Chile's most interesting contemporary wine movements. Why VIGNO? “VIGNO was born in 2011,” Pilar Miranda told me. The objective, she explained, was to promote Carignan from Maule — particularly wines from old, bush-trained, dry-farmed vineyards. But there was another part of the mission that is arguably even more important. It was about promoting the viñadores — the local growers who had maintained these vineyards. That idea goes right to the heart of VIGNO. This wasn't simply a group of wineries deciding to make premium Carignan. It was an attempt to put value back into an agricultural landscape that had spent decades being undervalued. The organisation's own history traces its origins to a group of winemakers making old-vine Carignan who began meeting as a lunch club in 2009. Formal discussions followed, and the association was legally established in 2011.But the founders did not immediately agree on what VIGNO should be. Some argued for 100% Carignan from old vines. Others, including Marcelo Retamal, believed the larger objective should be the preservation of the viticultural heritage of the Maule drylands, rather than simply protecting one grape variety. Renán Cancino, himself from Sauzal and one of the important figures in the foundation of the movement, kept returning to another question: what did the project actually mean for the small growers who owned these vineyards? Those arguments ultimately helped define VIGNO. The rules are simple. The landscape isn't. The VIGNO framework is remarkably straightforward.
But they don't make the wines identical. And that is where Maule becomes fascinating. One VIGNO, many regions Carlos Rojas of Odfjell describes the VIGNO territory as comprising three communes and six subzones. That distinction is important because “Maule” can sound like one enormous, homogeneous wine region. It isn't. The territory stretches between the Maule River and the southern limits of the region, bounded by the Loncomilla River to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west. VIGNO describes almost 19,000 hectares of vineyards within this broad territory, with Carignan occupying only a small fraction of it. And the Pacific matters. So does the difference between the coastal hills and the warmer interior. Carlos explained that some VIGNO vineyards are considerably closer to the ocean and therefore experience a fresher climate, while others lie further inland and are warmer. The difference can be dramatic enough to affect the harvest calendar. Some Carignan may be picked towards the end of February. Others can remain on the vine until the middle of April. That is a remarkable variation for wines carrying the same VIGNO identity. It is also the reason that simply saying “Maule Carignan” doesn't tell the whole story. The geography is beginning to matter. Reading Maule through the six sub-zones: Melozal — One of the warmer inland areas of the VIGNO landscape, with hot, dry summers and limited maritime influence. Its old Carignan vines produce wines with ripe fruit, concentration and firm structure. Huerta de Maule — One of the historic heartlands of Chilean viticulture, with a long tradition of dry-farmed, head-trained vineyards. Old Carignan here tends towards generous fruit, freshness and earthy complexity. Cauquenes — Inland Maule, but influenced by the cooling effect of the coastal range. Its old Carignan vineyards can combine ripe fruit and depth with savoury character, acidity and firm tannins. Sauzal — A particularly important name in the VIGNO story, both geographically and historically. Its dry-farmed old vines produce Carignan with freshness, floral character, red fruit and an often distinctly earthy, mineral edge. Empedrado — Closer to the Pacific and among Maule's more maritime-influenced areas. The cooler conditions and coastal hills bring greater freshness and tension to the wines, while the old vines provide concentration. Loncomilla — One of the traditional wine-growing areas of Maule and closely associated with the origins of VIGNO. Its warm days and dry-farmed old vines produce Carignan with ripe fruit, spice, structure and lively acidity. Not another Chilean wine brand There is a temptation to compare VIGNO with organisations such as Germany's VDP or Catalonia's Corpinnat. There are similarities: all are producer-led attempts to communicate quality and origin through a collective framework. But VIGNO's motivation is different. The VDP has developed a highly structured hierarchy around the precision of origin. Corpinnat has built a collective identity around Penedès, organic farming, hand harvesting and production requirements. VIGNO begins somewhere else. It begins with a question: What happens if we give value to something that the market has spent decades undervaluing? The answer is an old grape, old vines, old growers and a part of Chile that suddenly has something distinctive to say. This is where I think Carlos Rojas's explanation of the three communes and six subzones becomes particularly important. VIGNO has already established its basic identity, but the next challenge is to make Maule itself more legible. The VIGNO organisation says that, together with the University of Talca, it has studied the climatic, geological and viticultural characteristics of the various areas represented by more than 70 small vineyards contributing to VIGNO wines. That work could eventually take the project somewhere much more ambitious. Imagine a sommelier being able to see Melozal, Cauquenes, Cauquenes Sur, Sauzal, Loncomilla or Empedrado on a wine list and immediately understand that these aren't simply addresses. That is when a collective wine brand starts becoming something more powerful: a geographical language. One grape. Many expressions. Back in Maipo, tasting through the VIGNO wines, the most striking thing wasn't that they tasted alike. It was that they didn't. They shared a genetic and agricultural foundation, but they expressed different parts of Maule. Some were floral. Some earthy. Some muscular. Some had piercing acidity; others carried greater weight and concentration. The common denominator was not flavour. It was origin and heritage. Pilar Miranda's explanation of VIGNO begins with the need to preserve Carignan, old vines, dry farming and the people who work them. Carlos Rojas takes the story further: Maule is not one place. It is a collection of climatic environments, with the Pacific and inland warmth creating meaningful differences in how and when Carignan ripens. Perhaps that is the real significance of VIGNO. It is not trying to make Maule taste like Bordeaux. It is not trying to reproduce the classification systems of Europe. It is doing something much more Chilean. It is taking a forgotten part of its own wine history and asking a simple question: What if the old vineyards were the future? One grape. Many expressions.
Back in Maipo, tasting through the VIGNO wines, the most striking thing wasn't that they tasted alike. It was that they didn't. They shared a genetic and agricultural foundation, but they expressed different parts of Maule. Some were floral. Some earthy. Some muscular. Some had piercing acidity; others carried greater weight and concentration. The common denominator was not flavour. It was origin and heritage. Pilar Miranda's explanation of VIGNO begins with the need to preserve Carignan, old vines, dry farming and the people who work them. Carlos Rojas takes the story further: Maule is not one place. It is a collection of climatic environments, with the Pacific and inland warmth creating meaningful differences in how and when Carignan ripens. Perhaps that is the real significance of VIGNO. It is not trying to make Maule taste like Bordeaux. It is not trying to reproduce the classification systems of Europe. It is doing something much more Chilean. It is taking a forgotten part of its own wine history and asking a simple question: What if the old vineyards were the future? Siegel Wines is increasingly defined by something more interesting: place. With roots stretching back more than a century, the Siegel family has built a wine portfolio that moves from the foothills of the Andes in Alto Colchagua to the maritime influence of Leyda and the cooler, coastal reaches of Colchagua. At the centre of it all is Los Lingues, a vineyard that has become the family's principal expression of terroir. But the story of Siegel is no longer simply about Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère. It is about understanding individual sites, exploring different climates and, occasionally, taking a few risks. A family before it was a brand The Siegel family's Chilean story began with Alberto Siegel Lubbe, a German architect who arrived in Chile and became associated with some of Santiago's important buildings. His son, Alberto Siegel Dauelsberg, took the family in a very different direction. He developed an interest in viticulture, studied agronomy and gained experience in German wine cellars before turning his attention to Chilean vineyards. More than three decades ago, he planted the family's first vineyards in Colchagua. These would eventually form the foundation of Siegel Family Wines. The winery's modern history dates to around 1980, while the family began bottling wines under its own name in the 1990s. What began as a traditional Chilean wine business has since evolved into a substantial family operation, with vineyards stretching across several very different terroirs. Today, the next generation is closely involved. Alberto Siegel Prieto, leads the business, while Fabiola Calderón leads operations and winemaking. That continuity is important. Siegel is not simply a label sourcing fruit from across Chile. Its identity remains firmly connected to the vineyards the family owns and manages. Los Lingues: the heart of Siegel If one vineyard explains Siegel, it is Los Lingues. Located in Alto Colchagua at around 360 metres above sea level, Los Lingues sits against the foothills of the Andes. The landscape is dramatically different from the flat valley floor that has traditionally defined much of Chilean wine. Its soils combine volcanic and colluvial material, including clay, decomposed volcanic rock and angular stones. The terrain itself is varied, with different slopes and exposures creating subtle differences in how individual blocks receive sunlight and ripen. Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère are central to the vineyard, alongside Syrah, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Carignan, Grenache and Mourvèdre. For Siegel, however, the important discovery has been that Los Lingues is not one terroir. It is a collection of smaller environments. "60 terroirs in one piece of land" as Fabiola puts it. The people behind the vines At Los Lingues, Elizabeth Cerón, an agronomist and the estate's field administrator, is part of the team responsible for translating the characteristics of the vineyard into practical decisions in the field. That means observing individual blocks, managing the vines through the growing season and understanding how each parcel responds to its particular combination of soil, exposure and climate. It is painstaking work, but it is precisely this attention to detail that allows a large vineyard to produce wines with a sense of individuality. From Los Lingues to the bottle Two wines illustrate this particularly well: Ketran and Unique Selection. Ketran represents the more ambitious interpretation of Los Lingues. Built around carefully selected lots from the estate, the blend has included Syrah, Petit Verdot, Carmenère and Cabernet Franc. It is an unconventional combination by Chilean standards, and that is precisely its attraction. Cabernet Franc contributes aromatic lift, Carmenère brings the unmistakable Chilean connection, Syrah adds spice and texture, while Petit Verdot provides structure and depth. The wine is matured in French oak and given substantial time to develop, resulting in something that feels less like a varietal showcase and more like a carefully composed estate wine. Unique Selection approaches the same idea from a more classical Chilean direction. Its blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Syrah brings together three varieties that work particularly well in Colchagua. The proportions can change with the vintage, allowing the wine to reflect the quality and personality of the individual components rather than being locked into a rigid formula. Together, Ketran and Unique Selection show two sides of Siegel's philosophy: one more experimental and eclectic, the other rooted in the classic vocabulary of Chilean wine. From the Andes to the Pacific Los Lingues may be the heart of the estate, but Siegel's vineyard map tells a bigger story. The family's holdings extend towards the Leyda Valley, one of Chile's important cool-climate wine regions. Here, the influence of the Pacific becomes unmistakable. Maritime conditions, cooler temperatures and significant diurnal variation create an environment particularly suited to varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. The contrast is significant. At Los Lingues, the Andes provide the backdrop for structured, deeply flavoured red wines. In Leyda, the Pacific shifts the emphasis towards freshness, acidity and aromatic precision. Naranjo: the unexpected Siegel If Ketran and Unique Selection represent the winery's ambition within the traditional red-wine framework, Naranjo demonstrates how far Siegel is willing to step outside it. Made from Viognier, the wine comes from Peralillo in the coastal-influenced part of Colchagua. The vines were planted in 1999. But the real difference is what happens in the winery. Naranjo is fermented on its skins for around three weeks, rather than being made in the conventional white-wine manner. The extended skin contact gives the wine its distinctive orange-gold appearance, along with phenolic grip and a markedly different textural profile. It is then matured in used French oak, allowing the wine to develop further layers of spice, dried fruit and savoury complexity. For a variety normally associated with ripe stone fruit and floral aromas, it is an intriguing transformation. The family has deep roots in traditional Chilean wine, but it is not afraid to explore techniques and styles that sit outside the mainstream. From the Andes to the Pacific, Siegel's story is ultimately one of a Chilean family becoming increasingly precise about where its wines come from — and increasingly curious about where they can go next. Casa Silva tells the story of a family—and increasingly, of its search for the places within Chile where individual varieties can express themselves most distinctly.The Silva family has been connected with Colchagua for generations, with French roots in Chile dating to the arrival of Emilio Bouchon in the late 19th century. The modern Viña Casa Silva took shape in 1997, when Mario Pablo Silva joined his father with the ambition of transforming the family’s historic wine business into a producer of bottled wines with its own identity. The family modernised the old 19th-century winery while expanding its vineyards into different parts of Colchagua and, eventually, much farther south. For a sommelier, however, the most interesting part of Casa Silva is not simply its history. It is what the family has done with its understanding of terroir. From the Andes to the Pacific Casa Silva's vineyards stretch across very different environments. Los Lingues and Angostura sit closer to the Andes, while Lolol and Paredones move towards the Pacific. The contrast is particularly evident at Paredones, just seven kilometres from the ocean. Here, the Pacific exerts a strong maritime influence, moderating temperatures and helping preserve acidity, aromatics and freshness. The mineral character of the soils complements this climate, making Paredones particularly suited to varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Chardonnay. It is a useful reminder that Colchagua should not be thought of as a single style of wine. Move towards the coast and the conversation changes: freshness, maritime influence and slower ripening become increasingly important. Going South: Futrono and Patagonia In 2006, the Silva family planted vineyards in the Futrono area, close to the Andes and on a slope descending towards Lago Ranco in Chile's Austral region. At this latitude, viticulture becomes an exercise in understanding climate rather than simply managing heat. The lake plays an important role by moderating temperature and reducing the risk of frost, while the hillside provides sunlight and drainage. Casa Silva was a pioneer in producing wines with a denomination of origin from this remote part of Chile. Today the Futrono project includes Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Riesling, alongside the limited-production Fervor del Lago Ranco sparkling wine. For wine professionals, these wines are particularly fascinating because they challenge the conventional image of Chile as predominantly a warm-climate producer of structured reds. Lago Ranco demonstrates just how far south—and how cool—Chilean viticulture can go. When Terroir Became a Scientific Question Perhaps the most intellectually interesting chapter in Casa Silva's story began in 2005. The winery began a three-year Micro-Terroir research project with the University of Talca to understand why vines growing in apparently similar conditions within the same vineyard could produce grapes and wines with noticeably different characteristics. The project went down to remarkably small units: micro-parcels of just 0.1 hectares were studied, with different varieties including Carmenère, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Viognier and Petit Verdot. Through microvinification, Casa Silva could isolate and compare these small parcels and identify those with the greatest quality potential. The work became particularly significant for Carmenère. Variations in quality and character were found in a substantial proportion of the micro-plots, leading Casa Silva to investigate whether clonal differences were contributing to what was being observed. That eventually led to a separate Genome Project, in which 72 Carmenère phenotypes from different Chilean valleys were studied. The research involved the University of Talca, Universidad Federico Santa María and Germany's Max Planck Institute. For a variety that has become synonymous with Chile, this is more than academic curiosity. It is an attempt to understand Carmenère at a level far deeper than simply identifying it on a wine label. The result is the Casa Silva Microterroir Carmenère, sourced from Los Lingues. It is 100% Carmenère, selected from the best plants across the studied blocks and aged for 15 months in French oak. The winery gives the wine a cellaring potential of around 15 years. For sommeliers, this is where the Casa Silva story becomes particularly compelling: the wine is not merely called Microterroir because it sounds fashionable. It is the commercial expression of a research programme designed to identify precisely which pieces of land and which plants could produce the most distinctive Carmenère. A Winery With a Horse's Heart
There is another side to Casa Silva that has little to do with laboratory work and everything to do with the Silva family's way of life. Horses have been part of the family's relationship with Colchagua for generations. The estate incorporates polo, Chilean rodeo and equestrian traditions, and the family's passion for horses has become inseparable from the identity of Casa Silva. Walk around the estate and the connection becomes obvious. Vineyards share the landscape with stables, polo fields and the traditions of the Chilean huaso. Even the winery's wines carry references to this equestrian heritage. The horse motif on Casa Silva's labels is therefore more than a graphic device. It reflects the family's relationship with the countryside, horses and the culture of Colchagua. That connection also finds its way into the visitor experience: Casa Silva's wine tours can include a visit to the stables, alongside tastings of its premium and icon wines. One Family, Many Expressions What makes Casa Silva worth watching is the combination of tradition and curiosity. The family has one foot firmly planted in the history of Colchagua, but the other is constantly searching: towards the Pacific at Paredones, into the extreme southern climate of Futrono, and beneath the surface of Los Lingues through micro-terroir and clonal research. Taste a Paredones Sauvignon Blanc beside a Lago Ranco Riesling. Put a Carmenère from Los Lingues next to the Microterroir expression. The wines begin to tell a larger story about Chile—not as one wine country with one recognisable style, but as a collection of increasingly precise places. And perhaps that is the most interesting evolution at Casa Silva. The family's heritage may be represented by a horse on the bottle, but its future is increasingly being defined by what lies beneath it: the soil, the climate, the vine and the search for the smallest details that make a Chilean wine distinctly of its place. There are few places in Chile where the influence of Bordeaux is as evident as at Los Vascos, yet there is also a growing sense that this is no longer simply a French interpretation of Chilean wine. Located in Peralillo in the Colchagua Valley, Los Vascos became part of the Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) story in 1988, one of the first major French investments in Chilean viticulture. The estate today combines Chilean terroir and traditions with the precision and winemaking philosophy of DBR Lafite. The result is a fascinating wine estate where Cabernet Sauvignon remains central, but where vineyards, soils and increasingly distinct cuvées are beginning to speak more loudly. The vineyard: Los Vascos sits between the Andes and the Coastal Mountain Range, around 200 km south of Santiago. The property covers approximately 3,600 hectares, of which about 640 hectares are planted with vines. It sits around 150 metres above sea level and approximately 40 km from the Pacific Ocean. The geography creates a significant diurnal range, with hot, dry days and considerably cooler nights. The temperature difference can reach as much as 30°C, conditions that favour slow ripening and the retention of freshness, particularly in Cabernet Sauvignon. The soils are equally varied. The estate has weathered granite, clay and shale, with alluvial sand and clay and a hard volcanic-ash-derived soil known as tosca in the valley floor. Higher up, the granite soils of El Mirador and Santa Lucia are particularly important for the more complex and age-worthy wines. The vineyard itself is a mixture of generations. Some plots average around 15 years, others are 40–50 years old, while the oldest vines of the vineyard are around 60 years old. Cabernet Sauvignon dominates the estate, accounting for approximately 68% of plantings, followed by Carmenère and Syrah. The Lafite influence The French influence here is not simply a marketing association with Château Lafite Rothschild. Los Vascos explicitly describes its wines as combining Chilean traditions with DBR Lafite's expertise, with an emphasis on elegance, precision and freshness. Cabernet Sauvignon is naturally central: it is both exceptionally well suited to the estate and the emblematic variety of Château Lafite Rothschild. The winemaking philosophy follows Bordeaux traditions, but the objective isn't to make a Chilean wine taste French. It is to use French experience to express what the Chilean vineyard can deliver. That distinction becomes increasingly interesting as you move up the portfolio. Le Dix: the Lafite connection at its most classical Le Dix is the estate's flagship wine and was first produced with the 1996 vintage, marking ten years of DBR Lafite's presence in Chile. Its name—French for ten—is therefore literal history. The wine is built around fruit from some of Los Vascos' oldest and most prized vineyards. Cabernet Sauvignon comes from El Fraile, the historic vineyard planted more than half a century ago on sand and silt. The Syrah comes principally from El Mirador, the first vineyard planted on the estate's hillsides. The blend is selected from the best grapes of the vintage and is aged for 18 months in Bordeaux oak barrels. For a sommelier, Le Dix is perhaps the most obvious place to examine the relationship between Chilean fruit and Bordeaux methodology: concentration without sacrificing freshness, structure without excessive extraction, and oak used as part of the architecture rather than as the headline. Cromas: looking at the hills differently If Le Dix represents the classical side of Los Vascos, Cromas shows how the estate has evolved. The name comes from the Greek word for colour, and the range emerged from detailed exploration of the estate's hillsides and soils. The team identified areas of ochre-coloured granite with shallow soils and good exposure. These slopes produce naturally balanced vines and fruit with greater precision and definition. The Cromas wines are aged for 12 months in barrel, and the range includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. The Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the Santa Lucia foothills, where strong day-night temperature contrasts allow slow ripening. Both Carmenère and Syrah comes from the gentle granite slopes in the Coastal Mountain Range. Chagual: organic, and distinctly Chilean The estate's organic range is Los Vascos Chagual. Named after Puya chilensis, a native Chilean plant important to the coastal ecosystem, Chagual represents Los Vascos' approach to organic viticulture and biodiversity. The Chagual Cabernet Sauvignon comes from certified organic plots in Peralillo. The Chagual Sauvignon Blanc comes from the coastal San Antonio area, where granite soils and strong Pacific influence encourage slow ripening and preserve acidity and varietal character. The broader estate philosophy is equally interesting. Los Vascos maintains sheep, beehives, native vegetation, orchards, forests, ponds and other elements of biodiversity. Plant waste is composted, wastewater is treated through a BioFiltro system and solar thermal and photovoltaic installations contribute to its energy strategy. The estate is certified under the Wines of Chile Sustainability Code and joined the B Corp community in 2023. This is important because the organic wines aren't being produced in isolation. They form part of a much larger attempt to treat the vineyard as an ecosystem. Cañetén: a new chapter Perhaps the most intriguing development is Cañetén. The Cañetén Valley sits about 40 km from the Pacific in a climatic transition zone between Colchagua Entre-Cordillera and Colchagua Costa. Mount Cañetén, rising to around 914 metres, helps intercept moisture from the Pacific, creating morning fog and low clouds before the valley warms and strong south-westerly winds arrive. The new Cañetén wine is a premium red blend designed to express this particular mesoclimate. Grapes are hand-harvested, individual vineyard sections are vinified separately in small concrete or stainless-steel tanks, and ageing is primarily in 4,000-litre foudres to minimise the aromatic influence of oak. That is a notable departure from the more overtly Bordeaux-inspired model associated with Los Vascos. The focus is increasingly on place, freshness and texture. Meeting the winemakers
That evolution becomes easier to understand when talking with the people working with the vineyards. During my visit, enologists Diego Marquez De La Plata and Maximiiano Correa were particularly useful in explaining how the wines are being shaped by increasingly detailed vineyard work rather than simply by cellar technique. What came through was a philosophy that should resonate with sommeliers: the objective isn't to impose a preconceived style on every vineyard. It is to understand the site first and then decide how much intervention is required. That might mean concrete rather than oak, foudre rather than small barrels, separate vinification of vineyard parcels or simply allowing the natural freshness of the fruit to remain visible. A Chilean identity emerging from a French foundation Los Vascos began with an unmistakable French connection. But after decades in Chile, the more interesting question is no longer how French the wines are. It is how the Lafite philosophy has helped reveal what is uniquely Chilean about this particular estate. Le Dix remains the classic expression of the partnership between old vines, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Bordeaux craftsmanship. Cromas moves towards a more detailed interpretation of the hillsides. Chagual explores organic viticulture and biodiversity. And Cañetén pushes further into site expression, with a wine designed around the valley's distinctive climate rather than simply around a Bordeaux template. It is Chile through the lens of Lafite—and increasingly, Chile on its own term Some wineries are places you visit to taste wine. Others make you want to understand the wine, the landscape and the philosophy behind it. Montes in Apalta belongs firmly in the latter category. Set in the Apalta area of Chile's Colchagua Valley, Viña Montes combines premium winemaking with an elaborate visitor experience. Its gravity-flow winery incorporates Feng Shui principles, its vineyards extend into some of Chile's most cool sites, and its destination restaurant brings the open-fire cooking of Argentine chef Francis Mallmann into the picture. Montes was ranked No. 10 in The World's 50 Best Vineyards 2025. Apalta and the Colchagua Story Apalta is one of the distinctive sub-regions of Colchagua, surrounded by hills that create a sheltered environment for viticulture. It has become particularly associated with premium red wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Syrah. Marchigüe, also within the broader Colchagua Valley, offers a different expression, with greater influence from the coast. The distinction matters because Colchagua is not a single homogeneous terroir; changes in topography and climate create noticeably different growing conditions within the valley. Montes has built much of its premium identity around these differences. A Winery Built Around Gravity and Feng Shui The Montes winery is perhaps as interesting as the wines. It's design incorporates Feng Shui principles, with the architecture intended to create harmony between the building and its surroundings. Water, wood, earth, metal and fire are incorporated into the design. The winery's cellar also uses Gregorian chants as part of its distinctive atmosphere. More practically, the winery uses gravity-flow technology. Its design allows grapes and wine to move between stages with the assistance of gravity, reducing the need for mechanical pumping. It is an interesting example of architecture serving both a philosophical and practical purpose. Pushing Towards the “Outer Limits” Perhaps the most interesting part of the Montes story is that its exploration of terroir doesn't stop at Apalta. The Outer Limits range comes from vineyards in different, sometimes extreme environments. Most notably, Montes planted in Zapallar in Aconcagua Costa, a coastal area influenced strongly by the Pacific Ocean. The contrast with Apalta is striking. Montes' Outer Limits Sauvignon Blanc comes from Zapallar and is a fresh, crisp, dry, cool-climate expression, with passion fruit, lime and grapefruit notes and pronounced acidity. The Outer Limits Syrah is equally intriguing. The coastal site produces a Syrah with vibrant acidity, red-fruit character and fine tannins rather than the heavy, ripe profile often associated with warmer climates. Montes was an early pioneer in developing Zapallar as a wine-growing site. The vineyards experience strong coastal influence from the Pacific as well as the Cordillera de la Costa. The name Outer Limits therefore makes sense. These wines are an exploration of what happens when varieties are planted outside their obvious comfort zones. Hand-Picked Fruit There is also considerable manual intervention behind the wines. Montes' technical material for Outer Limits Sauvignon Blanc, for example, describes grapes being hand-picked early in the morning into 12-kg trays, followed by refrigerated transport and careful bunch selection. The Outer Limits Syrah is similarly harvested by hand in small boxes during the cooler morning hours. At the premium end, selection becomes even more rigorous. The philosophy is straightforward: if you're trying to make a serious wine, the quality of the fruit entering the winery matters enormously. The Alpha Proposition Montes Alpha is central to the winery's premiumisation story. The range helped establish Montes as a producer of high-end Chilean wine, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot among its better-known expressions. At the top of the portfolio are wines such as Alpha M, Montes Folly and Purple Angel, which feature prominently in the winery's visitor experiences. The premiumisation philosophy isn't simply about creating an expensive wine. It is about vineyard selection, lower yields, careful harvesting, rigorous fruit selection and precise winemaking. Fuegos de Apalta The wine experience doesn't end at the cellar. At the estate is Fuegos de Apalta, the destination restaurant associated with Argentine chef Francis Mallmann. Its cooking revolves around fire, with meats, fish and vegetables roasted, smoked and baked over different types of fire. Visiting Montes
Montes offers several visitor experiences. The Icon Tour costs CLP 50,000 per person and includes two Montes Alpha wines, an Outer Limits and an Icon wine. The Double Icon costs CLP 65,000 and includes Montes Alpha, Outer Limits and two Icon wines. The Andes Deluxe, also CLP 65,000, brings together wines from Montes in Chile and Kaiken in Argentina. The Sunset experience costs CLP 65,000 and includes four wines with cheese and homemade sweets. It operates from October to March. For serious wine enthusiasts, the Evolution Tour is particularly interesting. It is a private two-hour experience for up to six people, priced at CLP 1.2 million per group. The experience features a vertical tasting of four older vintages of an Icon wine such as Montes Alpha M or Montes Folly, guided by a wine specialist. There is also a Wine & Dine experience combining the Evolution tasting with a premium menu at Fuegos de Apalta. More Than a Winery Visit What makes Montes memorable is the way the pieces come together. Feng Shui in the architecture. Gravity in the winery. Hand-picked grapes in the vineyards. The cool Pacific influence of Zapallar. The slopes of Apalta. Fire at Fuegos de Apalta. And a premium wine philosophy built over decades. The result is more than a tasting. It is a window into how Chile can turn geography, experimentation and winemaking into a complete wine experience. P.S. The Chiloé Experiment Montes' search for new terroirs has taken it far beyond Apalta and Zapallar. In 2018, the winery planted vines on Mechuque Island in the Chiloé archipelago of southern Chile, one of its most ambitious vineyard experiments. The cool, wet maritime climate makes viticulture challenging, but Montes is exploring varieties including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño and Riesling. The first harvest came in 2021. Like the Outer Limits wines, the Chiloé project is less about following convention and more about asking a simple question: how far can Chilean viticulture go? |
MEET THE EDITOR
Ajit BalgiCertified Wine & Sake Sommelier, BNIC Cognac Educator, and founder of The Happy High. Ajit brings over 20 years of experience across global hospitality, beverage education, cocktail and wine judging, and beverage consulting to lead our editorial vision. Read Full Bio →Opinions & Insights on Wine, Spirits, Bartending and Sommelier CultureThe Happy High blog shares perspectives on the evolving world of wine, spirits, bartending, and sommelier culture in India and around the globe. From industry observations and beverage education to bar culture and hospitality trends, this section captures our views from the frontlines of the alcobev industry. Categories
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