The fact that Austria produces world-class white wines is nothing new. However, in recent years, Austrian reds have been following hot on their heels, making headlines with their top international ratings. And it is no wonder, for it has almost been one outstanding vintage after another since 2015. Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, Sankt Laurent and the likes have produced juicy, ripe red wines full of fruit and with all the typical freshness of Austrian wines.
Velvety red with delicate spicinessWhen talking about Austrian red wines, there’s no getting around Zweigelt (Rotburger). Nowadays, this crossing of Blaufränkisch and Sankt Laurent is grown on around 6,000 hectares of land, in other words, almost half of the area dedicated to red wine varieties in Austria. And there is good reason for this! Zweigelt is a charmer with velvety tannins and deep fruity aromas of morello and dark cherries, combined with a confit of forest fruits. Does that sound a bit kitsch? Well it isn't, because a delicate spiciness is what gives Zweigelt its vital pizzazz. Served a little cooler, a light Zweigelt is also the perfect drink to enjoy on the patio in summer. And while the appeal of a young Zweigelt is well-known, a growing number of connoisseurs are discovering the delights of these wines when they have had a chance to mature. With ageing, the tannins become even more refined and the flavour profile is enhanced by notes of mocha and leather. A mature performance: one top vintage after the otherWhile on the subject of maturity, those who aren’t browsing the stocks of Austria’s red-winemakers right now are passing up a unique opportunity. Perfectly matured red wines from the historic 2017, 2019 and 2021 vintages are still available, for example, as well as the delicately fruity and precise 2020 and 2016 wines. Those who prefer something that packs more of a punch in the glass should consider the dense and powerful 2018 vintage. These mature reds display all the charisma that Austria has developed in this area. Their flavour components have settled into the perfect balance, while the wines have still retained their typical freshness and are as juicy as ever. Character, character, characterAnother wine that has particularly benefited from the recent good wine-growing years is Blaufränkisch – a character actor that has established Austria as one of the top red-wine producing countries, especially at the international level. As a late-ripening variety, the warm summers and mild autumns particularly suit Blaufränkisch. This enables its unmistakeable foundation, grippy tannins and vibrant freshness to ripen to perfection, allowing it to develop deep-rooted aromas of dark berries, a spicy, smoky minerality and the occasional vivid floral note. Virtually no other variety expresses the typicity of its origins in the glass quite as well as Blaufränkisch. The sophisticated grape with a sugar brakeThe third variety that plays a key role on the Austrian red-wine scene is Sankt Laurent. It is, without question, an absolute diva in the vineyard. However, it is also a grape that appears made for climate change, since it has a natural sort of “sugar brake”. This prevents the grapes from storing too much sugar, even in warm years. As a result, the wines are never too heavy, developing an incomparable elegance and sophistication instead. They are mild and fruity, almost silky on the palate, and display aromas of dark forest fruits, cherries and a hint of forest floor that is reminiscent of illustrious Pinot Noirs. (excerpt from a release)
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The Happy High is a Mumbai based beverage consulting co founded in 2014 with a vision to raise the bars of the wine and dine scene in the country. Read more.
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